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    Have you ever ordered a $300 appetizer, gotten served little more than pureed entrails with very pretty slices of grape, and thought: “Damn, I just want a burger?”

    Mario Batali laughs and takes this all in stride. There’s a battle between what the cook thinks is high art and what the customer just wants to eat.”

    Thank God this is a chef that can serve food that actually (gasp!) fills your stomach. Novel concept.

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